Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
