🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.